Grooming Guides

Grooming Guide- American Cocker Spaniel

Grooming Your American Cocker Spaniel

1) Conditioning Between Shows:

Once again the most critical step in any conscientious conditioning program. The time and effort you place here will make your job much easier on that all important SHOW DAY!
It is what is going to set your dog apart from the rest of the dogs in the ring. Even when an individual understands how to 'PUT A DOG DOWN ' for show, if the conditioning has not been properly attended to prior to the show the dog can only look so good. The coat will not glow or, lay the way it should to show that dog off to it's best advantage. It becomes painfully obvious that something is lacking in the conditioning and things are not up to standard.

Cocker coats come in a variety of colors and coat textures and have some very unique challenges to accomplish the ultimate in conditioning.
There are the real silky straight types who also tend to be more single coated; the cottony, still single-coated, more full coated type who tend to mat easily; and the coarser more double coated, dense coated dogs where we have the problem of loosing the contours of the animal. With 2 types of hair on the same dog we want it to hang together and look like one kind of hair for a really finished look. We will address all of these types. If your dog is in the middle, the amounts and products can be adjusted accordingly. It is always best to adjust according
to the coats individual needs, which can vary from time to time. The season changes can change moisture level requirements as can the period of time between baths.
Shampoo with the #1 ALL SYSTEMS SUPER-CLEANING AND CONDITIONING SHAMPOO diluted at a minimum of 1 part shampoo to 2 parts water. The actual ratio should be adjusted according to the softness of your water; the softer the water the further it dilutes, up to as much as 8 parts water to 1 part shampoo. How dirtyor oily,and how dense the coat to be cleaned is, will also have an effect on the amount of dilution required. This is not a high sudsing shampoo, more suds does not necessarily mean more clean. What it means is more detergent and this translates to the potential for drying out the coat and removing all the good conditioning you are trying to do. Rinse thoroughly, until water runs clear, and then rinse one more time. White areas
on parti-colors, blacks and buffs should be shampooed at least 2 times per month with the #1 ALL SYSTEMS Professional Formula Whitening Shampoo, diluted at 1 part shampoo to 5 parts water for all over body use, and full strength on faces, feet and any other areas which may be stained. Be careful around eyes.

Use a drop of mineral oil in each eye to protect them. Even though the whitening shampoo does not contain peroxide or blueing it does have some super cleaners in order to remove stains effectively and can be irritating to sensitive eye tissue. If some does get into the eyes, flush with lots of cool fresh water immediately. The shampoo may be left on stained areas for up
to 5 minutes while you shampoo the rest of the dog. Then rinse thoroughly and follow with the Super-Cleaning and Conditioning shampoo. This is a totally residue free shampoo and will remove residues left behind by any other products, as well as any residue from the Whitening Shampoo. The Whitening Shampoo also contains optical brighteners and coconut oil to help protect the hair from damage while enhancing color and removing stains. When used on a regular basis urine and tear stains should be minimized. Tear staining can be caused by a number of different things;
1) low grade infection in the tear duct,
2) blocked tear duck,- both of these conditions should be treated by a veterinarian,
3) Heavy mineral content of the drinking water,- this can be eliminated by using distilled water only.
4) The red dyes in some dog foods,- use foods without added colors.
5) The use of beef or pork products in the animals diet should be eliminated.
6) Use of heavy or unnatural perfumed products, 7) Detergent based residue type shampoos.

Next you will want to use the Lanolin Stabilizer at least 1-2 times a month on the silky coats, and 3-4 times a month on the heavier cottony coats and more double-coated dogs. This is a pure citric acid rinse designed to remove any excess, unutilized by the skin and hair oils or conditioner. It is also effective for neutralizing stains which are alkaline in nature, such as urine, and saliva. It also is effective for use on any type of weeping dermatitis. It kills the bacteria on the skin and lowers the pH thereby making it a hostile environment for bacteria to grow. So as a result the skin is able to heal naturally. Dilute 1 ounce, for silky coats and 2 ounces for heavy coats to 31, 30 ounces of warm water respectively. Pour evenly throughout coat and leave on for at least 60 to 90 seconds. Rinse completely. Run your hand over coat. If it feels waxy to the touch , shampoo one more time lightly with the Super-Cleaning and Conditioning Shampoo, then rinse thoroughly.

THE CONDITIONING STEP:
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The more single-coated dogs, be they silky coated or cottony should be conditioned between shows with the Humectant Moisturizing and Conditioning Oil. It is light weight and contains all of the properties traditionally found in a conditioner , such as detanglers, and anti-stat, as well as, the humectant moisturizing oil; Evening Oil of Primrose, there is a high-tech emulsifer which not only allows it to mix readily
with water but also allows it to saturate the coat evenly. It shampoos out easily because it is water soluble. It is truly 'GOOF-PROOF'.
The silky coated ; Mix 2-3 caps from a 16 oz. bottle in 32 ounces of water. Distribute evenly throughout the coat, paying close attention to trouble spots; including the all important ends, rears, side panels of coat and any areas prone to matting. Squeeze out excess and blow and brush dry. Be careful to remove loose dead coat. The cottony thick coats use 3-5 caps, from a 16oz. bottle of the Humectant Oil, approximately 31 ounces of warm water. You may also want to add 2-3 drops of the Pure Cosmetic Lanolin to the solution. The more double-coated require a combination of 2-4 caps from a 16oz, bottle and 1-2 caps of the Pure Cosmetic Lanolin. This becomes important so the coat does not matup in only a few days.

Always brush the coat inthe direction the coat grows. This will prevent breaking the ends and always brush past the ends of the coat. Use the #1 ALL SYSTEMS ULTIMATE PIN BRUSH to get all the way through the layers of coat to the skin without damaging the coat.

The #1 ALL SYSTEMS SLICKER BRUSH should be used on the legs after the pin brush goes freely through the coat. This is your insurance that any dead coat has been removed and will not cause mat up in a very short time. Generally, unless a changing (rotating) the oil, if done properly this the coat for 5-7 days minimum. Coats in bad condition initially, until you get them up to par. formulated for the canine coat or at the detrimental effect on the hair and depending of hair the dog possess will determine
the coat to dog is coat should hold will take more care Products either not wrong pH can have a on the natural type the extent of damage done, and the time necessary to recover.
Improvement can be seen with the first application of #1 ALL SYSTEMS products.

If brushing in between baths is necessary, use the Moisturizing Coat Protector and Enhancer. It contains a lightweight mink oil, highly refined lanolin , and vegetable protein in a baby powder scent. It is excellent for dematting. Spray the area to be brushed lightly but completely. Spray mats heavier and let sit for a few minutes before brushing, separate mats carefully with fingers and carefully brush with the #1 ALL SYSTEMS pin brush. Start at the ends and work up the hair shaft to hair root, eventually being able to easily brush from hair root to ends easily. Always brush past the ends of the coat and use the entire head of the brush for brushing. Nice even firm but gentle pressure this will save the coat , your arm and the brush. Hold the handle, not the head of the brush in your hand and no death grips please. This is very hard on the hair, your arm, and the brush. Brushing a very dirty coat is not recommended as the dirt is very abrasive to the fragile hair shaft and can produce split ends and porous hair, which is more likely to break and which will not have a smooth finished look. When you are forced to brush a dirty coat, due so only in the areas where it is really necessary, like where it is matted. Be sure to use lots of the Moisturizing Coat Protector and Enhancer and a very gentle brush stroke. Free up end first and divide and conquer.
All show coats should be bathed at least every 7 days.

2) Preparing The Coat For Show Day:
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Shampoo with # 1 ALL SYSTEMS SUPER-CLEANING AND CONDITIONING SHAMPOO, diluted according to your water, and the coat to be cleaned. Squeeze shampoo through coat like you would if you' were washing a fine garment. This will help prevent tangling Rinse completely. Whites on parti-colors, blacks and gold buffs should be washed with the #1 ALL SYSTEMS Professional Formula Whitening Shampoo, full strength on stained areas and diluted
a minimum of 1 part shampoo and 5 parts water for all over body use. Rinse thoroughly, until water runs clear and then one more time just to be certain. Whitening Shampoo may be left
on stained areas up to 5 minutes. Follow by using the Super-Cleaning & Conditioning Shampoo.
Next use the Lanolin Stabilizer and Coat Retexturizer diluted 1 ounce to 31 ounces of warm water, for silky coats. Tumble gently to mix. Use 2 ounces to 31 ounces of warm water for the cottony and double coats. Distribute evenly through coat and leave on for 60 seconds. Rinse thoroughly. Run your hand over the coat. If it feels waxy to the touch do one more light shampoo on top coat and rinse completely.
Next: The #1 ALL SYSTEMS Botanical Conditioner should be diluted as follows; 1) silky coats . 1 cap from a 16oz. bottle in 32 ounces of warm water. Put conditioner in bottle first fill half way with warm water. Replace cap and shake vigorously to mix. Then fill the rest of the way with warm water, shake again and with a distributor type cap or in a spray bottle distribute evenly through coat. 2) Cottony or double-coated dogs: 2-3 caps in 32 ounces of warm water it is best to pour through this type of coat as it more difficult to saturate these coats evenly.
You may want to lay the dog down in the tub, put the stopper
in the tub and scoop the solution through the coat At this point you may add more warm water and even float the coat. Then stand the dog up and rinse with fresh water luke warm is best, and then gradually cool the water down as this helps to close the pours in the coat and gives the coat a harder texture. Hot water has a tendency to soften the coat and weakens the hair shaft. Drying with too hot of a dryer also will do the same thing, a luke warm dryer is best.

Dry the dog with a blow dryer after squeezing out the excess water and blotting dry with a terry towel for those really bushy coat. Keep a damp towel over the coat you are not working on immediately as air drying will accentuate your problem. Work
a small section at a time. It is best to start on the show side, example, mid-section, then rear, shoulder, tops of legs can be done at the same time so that when dog is layed on its side all that is left to dry is a small section down the belly, between the front legs, the feet and insides of the legs. Chest should be dryed with the dog sitting up and always brush and blow in the direction the coat grows. Never back brush, at least until all of the ends are freed up and tangles removed from coat. Back brushing weakens the coat and puts unnecessary stress on the coat.

Be sure to use #1 ALL SYSTEMS Ultimate Pin Brush. Start at ends and work up hair shaft to hair root. Go all the way past the ends of hair, use the entire brush head. Hold the brush by the handle not the head. When you are finished, the hair in the brush should, and it should be minimal, unless the dog is going through a coat change, be evenly distributed in the brush. If it is not, you are not brushing correctly. Check your technique, as the wrong technique can damage coat, can wear your wrist
and arm out and shorten the life of the brush. This is a fine instrument and should be treated like any other fine tool if it is to serve it's purpose in a manner to which it was designed
If the coat is real silky you will want to lightly spray the
# 1 ALL SYSTEMS HAIR REVITAILIZER AND INSTANT ANTI-STATIC COAT SPRAY into the coat as you are drying it. This will greatly improve texture and help eliminate those fly-away fine hairs. It is non-oily, so, it will not produce separation in the coat.

At THE SHOW GROOMING:
Touch-ups should be done with #1 ALL SYSTEMS SELF-RINSE CONDITIONING SHAMPOO diluted a minimum of 5-7 parts water to
1 part shampoo. Mix in a spray bottle. Plant spray bottles work well for this purpose. Spray the area to be cleaned and blot dry with a clean towel, repeat as necessary. Coat will be cleaned, conditioned and deodorized all in one step. It is best to do a small section at a time, then dry and brush into place.

DRESSING THE COAT
Coat should be layered with: 1) for silky coats a solution of } cap from 16oz. bottle of the Protein Lotion Conditioner in 32 ounces of water. Mix thoroughly and mist coat lightly. Ends of coat can the be lightly powdered with either house-hold corn starch or baby cornstarch powder. Leave for a minute or so and then brush into place. Again start at the ends and work up to hair root go past the ends of the coat to avoid unnecessary stress and brush in the direction that the coat grows.

Legs should be back brushed with the #1 ALL SYSTEMS SLICKER BRUSH after the ends are freed up with pin brush this will fluff up the leg hair.

2) For the cottony and more double coated dogs mix a solution of the #1 ALL SYSTEMS PREMIUM PROTEIN PACK AND PRE-CHALK 5-6 pumps in an 8oz. spray bottle. Put product in bottle first. Fill 1/2 way with hot water, replace cap, shake vigorously to mix. Then fill the rest of way with warm water and shake again. Solution sometimes separates after it sits a while. Just shake as necessary before using. Layer th-e coat. This is a non-oily conditioner and really helps lay down those big unmanageable coats. It will not gum them up and any excess amount will be absorbed into hair and coat. Brush into place.
Coats can be misted with The # 1 ALL SYSTEMS HAIR REVITAILIZER AND INSTANT ANTI-STATIC COAT SPRAY just before entering the ring. If conditions are especially ' staticky add a little to the coat dressing solution.